How a Caribbean Carnival Pro Packs For Barbados's Crop Over Festival

PS Photography | Jihan Forbes
PS Photography | Jihan Forbes
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In "Pack With Me," influencers and editors give us a rundown of their travel must-haves and a few travel hacks to go along with them. For this installment, writer and Caribbean Carnival pro Jihan Forbes shares the essentials she packs to celebrate and experience Barbados's Crop Over Festival.

It's noon on the first Monday in August. The sun is as hot as it is high. I can already feel the burn forming on my shoulders, but I don't care. It's my favorite day — Grand Kadooment — and it's only just begun.

Grand Kadooment marks the end of Barbados's annual Crop Over festival, and it's arguably its biggest event. You've likely seen it on your social media timelines: crowds of people clad in rhinestone and bead-festooned costumes, their figures framed by colorful feathers, bursting from wire backpacks or spraying out from the tops of headdresses. Chances are, you've peeped one or more of Rihanna's Grand Kadooment costumes in the media, as she's turned out to the festivities over the years.

The lively atmosphere reflects the costumes. Revelers follow giant trucks outfitted with speakers, stacked high and strapped down, blaring million bpm-basslines that go right through you. You can't help but dance, even when the sun is extra spicy and the humidity feels like you're swimming in it.

Growing up a first generation American of Caribbean descent, masquerading organically became something I wanted to do at least once in my life.

This display is called a masquerade, or "playing mas," across several Caribbean festivals and carnivals, but in Barbados, they refer to it as "jumping." What appears to be a hedonistic exhibition of gyrating waistlines and quivering flesh slick with perspiration is really a pageant of resistance and freedom.

Growing up a first generation American of Caribbean descent, masquerading organically became something I wanted to do at least once in my life. I heard about it in the soca songs we listened to at home or at any number of family friends' backyard barbecues. My father is an immigrant from Trinidad and Tobago, twin islands for which carnival and masquerading is core to the national identity. There, black people quite actually fought for the right to parade through the streets during the Carnival season.

Attending a Caribbean carnival had been a desire of mine as a kid and teenager. My parents, deeply strict Christians, would not allow it. But in my late twenties, when I finally had a little cash to spare, I played my first mas in Trinidad. It was 2017. Donald Trump had just begun his time in office, and I was feeling defiant and eager to be joyful in spite of what was going on — and what was to come — in the U.S. As the current election unfolds, I still carry that same feeling today.

There are lots of things you should bring with you to Crop Over, or any Caribbean carnival for that matter. But as someone who has done a lot of them, there are a few things I absolutely cannot leave without. Ahead, learn more about the Barbados Crop Over festival and shop all the essentials I packed, from body oil to a portable fan.

What Is Crop Over?
PS Photography | Jihan Forbes

What Is Crop Over?

Crop Over shares similar themes of freedom, celebration, and black joy as Trinidad Carnival. The festival dates back to the 18th century, when Barbados was a British colony exporting massive amounts of sugar. At the end of the harvest season, the enslaved people on the island were permitted a time to celebrate the fruits of their unpaid labor.

After World War II, the Crop Over festivities wound down, but by the 1970s, they were back in full force to create the modern Crop Over, which celebrated its 50th anniversary this year. The experience I had this year as a guest of the Barbados Tourism Board explored the history and culture of Barbados while giving you the full, revelry-heavy experience of the festival.

Throughout the Crop Over Season, there are several different cultural events: calypso and soca music competitions, a ceremonial delivery of the last canes, and a steelpan orchestra competition, to name a few. Also on the schedule: dozens of fetes, or parties, that give you an authentic, flavorful taste of Caribbean culture.

What Is Foreday Morning?
PS Photography | Jihan Forbes

What Is Foreday Morning?

Foreday Morning, which occurs well before sunup on the Saturday before Grand Kadooment, is the preamble to the big show on Monday. Revelers join Foreday bands and take to the streets to dance and throw paint and powder. On other islands, it's known as jouvert (pronounced jou-vay). Both are a form of "dirty" or "dutty mas," which is considered to be the people's mas. It is much cheaper to participate in Foreday than it is to buy an expensive costume on Grand Kadooment, which is a form of "pretty mas."

Pretty Mas: Grand Kadooment
PS Photography | Jihan Forbes

Pretty Mas: Grand Kadooment

Beyond the financial commitment, pretty mas is physically demanding. Don't be fooled by its name or appearance — it's not for the weak. As opposed to Foreday, which begins in the cool air of the night and finishes in the morning before the sun gets too hot, Grand Kadooment starts when the sun is getting to its hottest. You're pouring sweat even if you're standing still — and doing that is impossible with the rhythms of soca playing while you're on the road.

The costumes aren't always super comfortable, either. Your wire bra may dig into the side of your chest. One of your feathers may scratch another masquerader as they navigate through the sea of costumes. If you're not carrying sunscreen, you are absolutely going to get burned, no matter how deep your complexion may be. Alcohol is flowing, but you may not even be able to think of libations beyond water. It is sensorially intense on every level, but even when it feels hard or overwhelming, you're still smacked with a feeling of euphoria.

And that's what mas is all about; daring to express joy in the face of hardship or oppression. For my ancestors, it was the oppressive heel of European colonizers. For me, it's the oppressive heat of the sun and its partner in crime, humidity. Indeed, mine is hardly a struggle in comparison to theirs — they had to cut sugar cane in this kind of weather. I get to dance and sing with a portable fan in hand. But I'm still able to make the connection.

Of all the carnivals and festivals I've attended, Crop Over has proven to be one worth putting at the top of your list. Between the culture, the music, the food, the revelry, and the unique lilt of the Barbadian accent, Crop Over is a beautiful reflection of the island and its lively spirit.

Keep scrolling for every item I packed to attend Barbados's Crop Over festival.

A Good Deodorant
saltair.com

A Good Deodorant

5% AHA Saltair Serum Deodorant in Exotic Pulp ($12)

B.O. in the heat is nothing you want to smell, especially when that B.O. is coming from you. A deodorant that can stand up to perspiration while you're dancing in this hot and humid climate is vital. Saltair's AHA Serum Deodorant didn't fail me once. The acids in the formula make your 'pits a hostile environment for bacteria that leads to a funky smell. When you roll it on, you get the scent of the deodorant, which soon fades and just smells like you. Yes, even if you feel sweat coming from your pores — take a hard sniff and you won't smell a thing.

A Clear Fanny Pack
amazon.com

A Clear Fanny Pack

Clear Fanny Pack ($12)

Foreday, jouvert, or any paint + powder fete is an absolute must if you're going to a Caribbean carnival or festival. Take along a fanny pack, purse, or small bag that is either water-resistant or waterproof.

Also, bring along shorts, a T-shirt, or underwear you don't mind getting mucking up. Jouvert bands will often outfit you with a T-shirt beforehand, but make sure you pack extra just in case. Bring along a plastic bag and a headwrap or hat to protect your hair. Find your rattiest sneakers and pack those as well.

A Portable Fan
amazon.com

A Portable Fan

Portable Handheld Turbo Fan ($30)

A portable fan might seem like a no-brainer, but if you're going to a fete or planning on playing mas, trust me, you'll want one with more than one or two speeds. A cheap little 99-cent bin fan just won't do — you need to call in the big guns. This rechargeable fan has five speeds and a digital screen that displays the level and how much battery you've used up. Bonus: it folds in half in case you want to rest it on something or you need to fit it in a small bag.

An Esim Card
esim.digicelgroup.com

An Esim Card

Esim card ($30 for a full week's data from Digicel)

Standing in line at the airport for a sim card? No thanks. Spending $10 dollars a day with my wireless provider? Keep it. Luckily, I didn't need to do either of those things thanks to Digicel's Esim cards. Digicel is the service provider for much of the Caribbean, and offers Esims for 7-day ($30, 8GB), 10-day ($40, 12 GB), and 30-day ($100, 30GB) visits.

Buy one from their website once you're able to get on WiFi, enter the Esim code they email you into your phone (check your directions/phone settings for specific instructions), and you're done. No need to wait or come home to a pricey phone bill.

A Scented Body Oil
brownsugarbabe.net

A Scented Body Oil

Brown Sugar Babe Nourishing Body Oil It Girl by Kayla Greaves ($55)

Another way to keep the funk away? A scented body oil. If you haven't already gathered, you're going to sweat a lot during Crop Over. I'm not ashamed to admit it: I was dancing so hard on some nights that I sweat through my clothes. The wet feeling wasn't the best, but at least I didn't smell like sour sweat.

Scented oils seep into my skin deeper than a spray-on fragrance does. When I sweat, the smell of the oil is what comes out. No stink. On this trip, I brought along a new fave, It Girl by Brown Sugar Babe. Its notes of bergamot, black pepper, bulgarian rose, and musk smell clean in the hot weather, are long-lasting, and create a nice little scent bubble on its own. I'm a little extra, so I'd layer it with Le Labo Cedrat 37 ($375), the perfect pairing.

A Crochet Set
jluxlabel.com

A Crochet Set

Jux Label Yellow Corazon Ruffle Skirt Set ($150)

I'm not typically drawn to crochet or mesh clothing, but I felt like I needed a few pieces on this trip. A cute crochet set is essential for a Crop Over wardrobe. They're easy to wear and keep you cool — all you need to do is accessorize. They can work for a lot of different events during and even after the season, and they take a lot of guesswork out of packing, too.

Ahead, check out a few Barbados travel tips.

Best Travel Tips for Barbados
PS Photography | Jihan Forbes

Best Travel Tips for Barbados

Whether you're bouncing from fete to fete during Crop Over, or visiting the country on vacation at any time of year, Barbados has plenty of attractions to get into. Regardless of when you're there, there are a few experiences it would be remiss not to recommend.

Stay somewhere nice.

The Caribbean is well known for its all-inclusive resorts and their fantastic service. The Wyndham Grand Barbados Sam Lord's Castle is another example of why the region is so world-renowned. The architecture is modern and clean, but without that sterility — this one is breezy and welcoming. Nine restaurants, several outdoor pools, a stunning beach, spa, tennis courts, gym, and more make it well worth the price and the stay. Check out the secret rum bar and if you're hungry late night, there's a grab & go food station in the lobby. On site, there is what is left of an old castle that used to house a land pirate, so you can get a little taste of Barbados history while you're there. Rooms start at $431 a night.

Cocktail Kitchen

Don't leave Barbados without eating at Cocktail Kitchen. Located in the lively St. Lawrence Gap, Christ's Church, the eatery, from award-winning chef Damian Leach, brings the flavors of the Caribbean to places you never expected. This will likely be your favorite meal of the trip. Must-tries include the shrimp & gnocchi, Thai fish cakes, roast breadfruit & lobster, and smoked black belly lamb risotto.

Go to a Fete

Caribbean parties are like no other, and few events show this better than a fete. If you like a night — or early morning, or afternoon — out, get a ticket to a fete. Vibe out to some soca, have a little rum, and enjoy this feature of island culture.

Their frequency is more intense during the festival season, but even if it's not Crop Over, there's a good chance you can find a fete offering a nice all-inclusive situation. Plan ahead and browse Ticketlinkz before you leave to see if anything looks interesting.
If you're in town for Crop Over, make sure you hit up at least one morning breakfast fete. Mimosa is a premium all inclusive affair with several food stations, full bars, and of course, mimosas of all kinds. Not getting up that early? Lost in Paradise on Sunday night is another one to add to the list. On Crop Over Thursday, Lifted Beach fete is the move. Tickets for the all inclusives run between $100 and $200, but keep in mind, the food and drinks are flowing the whole time. You definitely get your money's worth.

Visit Harrison's Caves

In Allen View, Barbados you'll find a waterfall — but you've gotta go underground to get to it first. Harrison's Cave is a stunning natural wonder, 2.3 miles of ivory stalactite-adorned ceilings and stalagmite-blooming floors. You'll find pools of pure, centuries-old waters (don't touch them!) and caverns so high and spacious, you quite actually throw a party in them — and they do. Book a tram tour with Chukka, or if you're more of a nature walk person, do a guided tour crawling and walking through the caves like a real explorer.

Go to Oistins Fish Fry

Get there early to beat the lines, but reserve time on Friday night to hit up Oistins Bay Gardens, just by the water and indulge in its famous fish fry. Seating is no frills — long tables lined with chairs — something you'd see at a backyard barbecue. And the food itself feels just like home. Dig into some snapper or Barbados' signature flying fish as you listen to soca, reggae, or a live band play. Then, head over to the craft fair just steps away and pick up something to remember the night by.

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Jihan Forbes is a PS contributor.